This is a guest post by Amy Knapp. Learn more about how you can guest post for Daily Shot Of Coffee.
You think it’s something obvious like, “predatory multinational corporation,” “free-market capitalism gone wild,” or “death to mom and pop.” I beg to differ. Other than the creation of a coffee shop monoculture that wipes out local shops and sends community dollars way out of town, the main problems with Starbucks are the coffee, the customers and the baristas.
The Coffee:
Starbucks CEO Howard Schultz is so proud of the ongoing training offered to employees that he documented it his book, Onward. In the opening chapter, he tells a dramatic story of the declining quality of coffee at Starbucks. It was a great crisis. A world crisis even. People were paying $7 for poorly pulled espresso shots drowned in tepid milk, the disappointing flavour masked with sugary syrup. (That never happens anymore.) Schultz was devastated by the demise of his prized coffee. He decided to do something radical: he closed all of his coffee shops for two hours and had all the employees watch an instructional video. From that day forward, sophisticated urban-types the world round drank delicious coffee every day and lived happily ever after.
No, we all know that’s not how it went. Minimum wage baristas mostly just high-fived each other, took extra long cigarette breaks and clapped themselves on the back. Nine bucks and a whole evening off! The next day they went back to serving lukewarm, coffee-inspired beverages with eight tablespoons of high fructose corn syrup. (In their defense, they will remake it for you as many times as you like. Unskilled they may be; unfriendly they are not.)
The Customers:
Starbucks’ customers disagree on how coffee is meant to be ordered. Most assume the barista knows nothing at all about coffee preparation and go to great pains to specify the correct temperature, number of shots or pumps of syrup, size, variety of milk, amount of foam. For customers who truly hate coffee (most of them), there’s also whipped cream and a range of sweet sauces. The finished product usually needs further tweaking, which takes place at sidebar where you can add four varieties of sugar (raw, processed, honey, vanilla), more milk (soy, skim, whole or half & half), and a sprinkle of something to keep things interesting (cocoa, cinnamon, nutmeg).
The Baristas:
Amateurs at Starbucks may falsely assume the barista knows how to make coffee. (They also use archaic terminology like “medium”). Huge mistake. If that were true, you could also assume that the correct amount of foam would be inferred from the style of coffee. A flat white, for example, has no foam. If your latte doesn’t have enough foam, perhaps it’s because you were expecting a cappuccino. If the quantity of foam needs to be specified, it suggests that either the client is misinformed about the type of coffee they want, or the barista is unschooled in the art of coffee-making. A latte with no foam, for example, is a flat white. A latte with extra foam is a cappucino. On the other hand, ordering a flat white with no foam is tautology, like ordering a coffee with a shot of liquid from coffee beans; it assumes the barista doesn’t know how to correctly assemble of the drink.
The most vexing specification concerns temperature. If you stand in line for more than three minutes at any Starbucks, you will inevitably hear someone order their coffee extra-hot. No one likes their beverages extra hot. Burning your mouth on a hot beverage ruins the pleasure of the drink completely. The only explanation for such a directive is that the coffees are not being served hot enough. I can substantiate this claim. My local Starbucks is famous for their special brand of lukewarm sludge. I can think of another offender just blocks from my old university. Across the street from that other Starbucks, kitty corner to JC Penney. You know the one.
“The Way I See It”
The way I see it, the word “coffee” is open to interpretation. More like a suggestion of some old-timey beverage your parents used to drink. Like Ovaltine or Tom Collins. Lucky for Starbucks, coffee (and by that I mean sugar) will never go out of style. Despite their incompetence, I still love their beverages (sugar). Also I’m addicted to coffee (sugar) in all its forms. Sometimes I forget it really is coffee (sugar). I’ll be sipping away at my extra-hot, tall, light soy, six pump, sugar-free, vanilla latte, no foam, no whip and suddenly wonder, did I forget to mention the extra-hot coffee bean juice?
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Amy Knapp is a Canadian blogger and drinker of large soy lattes (one sugar, please). Educated in Law and the Fine Arts, her work champions the marriage of the creative and the corporate. She’ll probably like your band on Facebook if you ask nicely. Follow her on Twitter @JoyofWords.
Photo by Jason Hargrove
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one thing SB has is easy site location recognition.
when i’m traveling on the road or in a community if i see that logo? i’m able to get coffee.
whether it’s good bad or great is another issue.
so i think their siting and locations and brand name work have worked.
from what i’ve observed in lines at SB, a majority of their clients do enjoy coffee-drinks.
they will mix and match to suit or follow as best they are able simple and complex ‘here is what i want’ types of customer orders.
believe me…we have all waited behind such customers chatting and specifying what in the world they want in their cups.
if i specify a simple mid roast organic coffee ground fresh and ask for the French Press brew right there, i usually get a great cup as a result.
and don’t get me going on the convenience of drive through SB… not very many other coffee houses even try to offer the active motorist a hot cup at the window around the corner. SB has that down pat.
nice article. great writing.
heart!
extraordinary topic.
we must all have this love hate thing with SB.
I agree with you that Starbucks never will go out of style due to their branding. Starbucks has throughout the years, grown their brand to become the one of the biggest in the world. They are even the best branded company on facebook.
As for their coffee, I hate to see them add all those syrups and additives that just shouldn’t be in coffee. Their americanos are delicious though!
You picked another outstanding guest writer Mike. Thanks for all the work, I really enjoyed reading this one.
Al Mazzone
Al is right, Mike. Good job.
Amy, there are many valid criticisms you could make about Starbucks but your selection was weak.
You can rail all you want about the sugary drinks Starbucks sells but they sell just as many straight espressos, lattes with one to 6 shots (no syrups of caramel) and cups of black coffee as anything else.
It seems like you don’t like the product diversity they offer. Sure, you can order a Mocha Frappuccino – the equivalent of a coffee/chocolate milkshake (Ooooo….now there’s some evil for you! The customers and the company should be belittled and scolded for offering or drinking a coffee/chocolate milkshake!) or a sausage breakfast sandwich. Neither of which have a lot to do with good independent specialty coffee shop offerings. Or, you can order a cappuccino, freshly pulled espresso shots with freshly steamed/foamed milk poured in. You can order a dry cap if you wish and the barista will steam two separated pitchers of milk to make enough foam to please you. You can also order a french press, and for four bucks the barista will freshly grind the beans of your choice and give you a french press you can take to your table and enjoy with your friends, or all by yourself if you choose, drinking from ceramic mugs with as much cream as you like.
If you’re going to rail against something you should know your facts. The two hours the stores were closed the partners were in training non-stop. New standards were indeed set. There were no breaks given during that two hours.
In closing you point out that different people mean different things by “coffee”. Well, yeah. They always have. Are you mad at Starbucks for offering what their customers want, or are you mad at the customers for wanting Starbucks “lowbrow” product?
I drink coffee from many many different coffee shops and I’ve had many tepid, weak, bitter cups of coffee at these shops that I’ve dumped out as soon as I was out of sight. And I’ve had many glorious cups that have caused me to hear the angels sing as I sip. It’s not news that there’s a broad spectrum of product quality out there. At least Starbucks product is consistent.
People get to vote with their dollars. Go watch a Starbucks on any given morning. Their main challenge is simply serving individually made drinks as fast as they can for 6 hours to try to keep up with the demand. So sue them.
My beef with you is not that you want to critique Starbucks, it’s that the points you chose were, like some coffees you and I have both had, not strong enough.
Best regards.
Thanks for setting the record straight, Ren, you make some really good points. For the record, I drink Starbucks quite regularly. Lowbrow? Yes, please.
Well, point in fact, Amy did not say she was mad at anybody. (In Chrome: Control F, search on “mad”–the first instance of the word is in Ren’s response.) Her title is “The Problem with Starbucks.” I think her thesis was not, “wow, I’m mad at Starbucks” so much as it was “wow, I can’t tell who’s more clueless about coffee in a Starbucks–the managment, the clients, or the workers!”
The best coffee in the world receives scores from the SCAA (http://scaa.org/). If coffee goes through this protocol and receives 80 points or more, then it is genuinely specialty. Real coffee aficionados really, really enjoy this coffee–without sugar–for the taste of the coffee.
When you cup an 87 (a great score by the way) next to a Starbuck blend in a blind test, it is immediately obvious what makes specialty coffee special. It’s the taste, the experience, and the sensations from the coffee. If it didn’t come through, Starbucks coffee does not go through the SCAA protocol.
So let’s recap the article.
COFFEE: The CEO of Starbucks has training to improve coffee. Amy says the employees screwed off and you say they had no breaks. OK, so why the coffee bad still? (Because it’s bad coffee, still). No amount of training will change this fact. Only better coffee will.
CUSTOMERS: The customers want sugar and not coffee. This doesn’t make Starbucks bad. And it doesn’t make coffee aficionados mad, just amused (and a bit bewildered). Do these customers KNOW they are drinking coffee that is PURPOSEFULLY of a mediocre quality and is over-roasted such that a hint of coffee flavor will make it through the milky-sweet chocolate? That’s OK either way, but it’s how seriously they take themselves that’s really funny. It’s like a person at a grill giving very precise instructions about a SPAM sandwich, then complaining that the person making it just doesn’t understand the nuances of a fine SPAM dining. (No, really, it’s just like that.)
Related, at the carnival are people who order a bag of kettle corn that’s three-feet long. Or people who order deep fried Twinkies. These people also love sugar. But they get that these products are crap. They don’t over order it. Nor do you complain about how it was prepared after. Louis CK has a great Cinnabon routine that makes the point perfectly (just replace “Cinnabon” with “” for a Starbucks slant): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fp-j72ALHHs
Below are some quotes from the Starbucks website–I have added another version in parenthesis as if these phrases were about kettle corn just to make the point–imagine trying to take these ads seriously if they were in the kettle corn booth:
–Amazing coffees (Amazing popcorn!)
–Handcrafted beverages (Handcrafted snacks!)
–Artfully roasted and brewed (Artfully sugar-coated and stirred)
–For the sophisticated palate (for the sophisticated palate)
BARISTAS. Hmmm. Well, watch this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7D5LUq7lEjk I feel for this guy, because he exquisitely expressed exactly how baristas feel…then got fired for it. He actually has real talent, but you can’t be so disrespectful of your job then expect to keep it (regardless of how true your disrespect is).
Anyway, Amy, nice read. I appreciate the light touch of your humor. I roast and brew in the home (the only way to go). But when traveling, I drink Starbucks, too, when I am in a pinch. I expect to get exactly what they have: Overroasted mediocre coffee that’s better than instant but is not specialty.
How to grill a great SPAM sandwich. I love it! Thanks for your input, Coffee Creature. You articulated a lot of what I was trying to express myself!
Excellent article. Very well-written. I applaud your honesty. I will say, you have to know your stores and your baristas. Mostly, I just order a tall brew, but sometimes even that can be poorly made. If you’re lucky to live in an area with a Clover, that’s your best bet. Thanks for sharing.
That’s so true, Dorothy. Once you get to know your local Starbucks, you have to tweak your ordering language to get the beverage right. I real troubles begin when you try a new Starbucks. Oy.